Inspiration for a Frame Design

So, one of the things that’s been difficult in my pursuit of carving frames is finding specifics of the craft.  There are a number of shops that have YouTube video’s of their frames being carved and gilded, many examples of traditional designs that could be copied  (maybe!) but nothing that walks you through a step by step, logical sequence about creating your own designs.  Well, just like most of my furniture work and skills have developed it’s time to strike out and write my own “book” about this subject.  Much of what we all do as artists, furniture builders, etc. is self taught through trial and error isn’t it?  I’ll share my dicoveries on the blog and am always open for comments or suggestions.

Painting by Diane Eugster

Painting by Diane Eugster

Diane recently completed the painting you see here at the left.  She’s been told that nudes aren’t a style of painting that’s in high demand.  Apparently, people aren’t that comfortable having nude art displayed in their homes!  When I saw this in her studio I was immediately drawn to the flowing, graphic design of this painting.  At first glance it comes across as an appealing flow of contemporary colors and then all of a sudden you discover that it’s a nude figure, seemingly suspended in mid-air!  The color palette and the way your eye is drawn through it captivated me from the start.  That was  the inspiration for a frame, I needed to come up with a design that flowed as beautifully as the figure Diane had captured on canvas.

Bougainvillea Leaf

Bougainvillea Leaf

Many frame idea’s come from doing a search for clip art, these were all too willowy and would be very hard to carve into a frame with any consistencey.  Most could work as a single, incised line essentially chip carved into the frame but that’s not my style.  This painting needed something with more body and impact to it.  Leaves and flower borders were my next search but these left me cold as well.  Walking Brandy in our apartment complex, I noticed all of the flowers in bloom and spied some gorgeous Bougainvilleas.  A year or so ago I’d taken a leaf from a Fig Tree and used that for a frame so I thought why not a Bougainvillea leaf?  I took a stem, found a leaf that fit in the area that was to be carved, scanned it and began the design process.  I liked the natural flow of the leaf and felt it mimicked the flow of the nude.  The first attempts had the leaves all lined up the same way which didn’t give me the flow I was after.  It’s so easy to flip an image when you scan it so that’s what I did which lead to this final design.  All of this process took a number of hours to complete, many sketches, and several practice carves on the remaining pieces of scraps from the profile.  Do you get the same sense of motion in the leaves as seen in the painting?  In the left hand picture you can see the notes I made to remind me of which chisel to use so that the curves had a consistency to them on each of the eight corners.

Having the pattern be consistent is important.  It’s not like anyone will ever do a line for line comparison of the work, after all it’s the the painting that’s the star.  That being said, if the pattern is obviously inconsistent from one corner to the next it will stick out like a sore thumb!  After drawing the design I’ll glue it to a piece of plastic from those salad containers I keep talking about.  They’re stiff and easily reversible.  That takes care of the outside, for the inside I’m using transfer paper and a soft pencil.  This creates its own form of carbon paper and gives enough outline to follow with chisels.

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I choose to do all of the outside work first and then layer and model the leaves after that to establish some sort of rhythm.  There’s always concern about the direction of the grain at the miter and since I wanted to keep that crisp I held the pattern away from it.  Once all was complete I didn’t like that!  Seemed to be too much space at the corners which needed to be solved.  Here’s what I did to tie them together:

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Ready for the Gold!

Ready for the Gold!

 

The concern was splitting out the grain when the chisel got to the miter, fingers crossed, freshly honed tool, and slow work led to success.  Here’s the frame with a coat of burnisher/sealer on it ready to be gilded Saturday.  Although those small details don’t show up much in the corners it’ll add a shadow line once gilded.

 

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Faux Sgraffito

CJ Frames Sgraffito Frame

CJ Frames Sgraffito Frame

Maybe I better explain this blogs title before I go to far!  Faux is probably familiar enough as a word meaning false or phony.  Here’s a link to the definition of sgraffito and it’s used in several art forms, especially painting and pottery.   For picture frames the design is scratched onto the frame after it’s been painted over the gold leafed surface.  Here’s a screen grab from a video by CJ Frames that illustrates that.  This can be done free-hand or with the use of stencils.  I really like effect but since my hands aren’t all that steady or artistic decided to try and come up with a different way of achieving a similar effect.  Here are the results, I’m happy with how the design is faintly there, you have to discover it.  Also the age and patina makes it seem as if  the frame has been around for many years.

The frame used is one that was made the same time I created the frame for Diane’s picture titled La Nina Mariachi .  Here’s a link to the Blog Post about how the frame was constructed.  The frame for Diane was made out of Tropical Walnut and since the machines were set up to cut the profiles and I had some Basswood available in the shop I choose to make two, additional 12″ x 16″ frames.

Knowing this would be difficult to carve due to the profile the design needed to be kept simple; that’s when the sgraffito inspiration hit me.  Searching through web images yielded a design I thought would work.  By experimenting with the size I decided two different sizes were needed to make a pleasing layout and the best tool to get there was this long bent V-tool, 6mm.  Keeping focused on the size of  the piece curling out from the tool is what I used to gauge the depth of the cut.

Sausages on the Sight Edge

Sausages on the Sight Edge

Once the designs were carved in, small circles were cut to add to the flow of the over-all design.  These were done with a #9/3mm gouge followed up with a flattened punch to smooth out the wood in the bottom of the circle.  That’s a technique used on the Waterleaf Frame recently completed here in Scottsdale as well.  Lastly, a few sausages were added to the sight edge for some additional design.

The next challenge was how to lay the leaf and in the 90 degree corners of this frame.  They start at the sight edge around the bead but the most challenging is the one where the panel meets the rim.  I found that by tilting the frame towards me and using a piece of cardboard to very gently push the leaf into the corners I had success.  Going in I knew there would probably be some faulting but decided to celebrate the patina and aging affect this could bring.

Toning of the frame followed my usual procedure.  First the brassiness is knocked down with 4/0 steel wool and some of the red clay sealer was exposed to replicate years of being handled.  This is the first time using Titanium White Casein only as the toner for this frame.  I find that the way it really cooled down the gold and got into the carving is pleasing.  The name given to this toning process will be Iced Gold and since I have one more frame with this profile it’ll give me an opportunity to experiment with it some more.  Toning is a constant unknown which is what sets one frame apart from the next.  So many variables in the process but that’s the beauty of hand craftsmanship versus production products.

 

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Artist Model for Rose Frantzen

If you’re a reader of my blog (first of all, Thanks!) you’ll know that Diane and I decided to celebrate our anniversary with a 6 month adventure rather than a cruise or trip abroad that would only last a week or so.  She to really immerse herself in workshops and open studio time at the Scottsdale Artist School and me to devote time to developing my carving and gilding of picture frames.  Being in a 2 bedroom apartment definitely means I don’t have any power equipment so focusing on the carving is my main thing.  In addition though, I interviewed and was hired as a portrait model for the school.  This has been a really cool experience and although it isn’t my usual woodworking thing I’ll blog about it anyway.

For the past two days I’ve modeled for Rose Frantzen, a very well known artist from Iowa.  She has studied with artists that I’ve heard Diane talk about for quite some time.  In case you think modeling is just a matter of sitting there and “looking pretty” let me tell you it’s not quite that simple!  For this session there is another model, half of the class of 17 does me one day and the other half painted her.  The next day we’ll switch so everyone has the same models and experiences.  Rose goes from one to another and instructs them in her beautiful style of portraiture and listening to her gives me quite an education!  In keeping with my first post of How Others See Me I’ll put together a slide show of each days work.  Keep in mind that I’m on an artists stand, lit up, and the artists are around me in a semi-circle so each of their views is different.  The skill level of the workshop participants is evident in their work.  Keep in mind they only had 6 hours of time that is divided into 25 minute segments with a 5 minute break.  They all take photographs so they can finish the portrait at their own studios if they desire.  We take an hour for lunch.  Here are the results of Saturdays work:

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As a teacher I really enjoyed listening to Rose as she went from one student to the next helping and encouraging them to learn and achieve what she has to show them.  The energy in the room is evident and infectious!  Like me, she’s a definite hands on teacher which I feel is the best way to teach.  Don’t ever put a paintbrush in my hand and expect something good to happen but between the conversations Diane and I have and listening to Rose explain the techniques of shading, edging, color, etc. I could be an “armchair artist”.  Really a great class and experience, here are the results from the second days sitting:

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You’ll notice the stick that a few painted in today.  Rose had me hold the stick to create a curvature in my shoulders.  In case you’re wondering how the same pose is achieved after a break the chair and floor are taped the first day to show my basic position.  On the stick I marked where my hands were and then found a spot on the wall to focus my eyes on.  The artists would have me make very slight corrections to the tilt and angle of my head  so the shadows and highlights were consistent for the entire day.  I have a break in my modeling schedule until the latter part of this month so it’s on to more frames.

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Flower Nouveau Complete

It always feels good to complete a frame and this 16″ x 20″ is no exception, it’s titled Flower Nouveau because it just seems like a different way of looking at a flower carved into the corner of a frame.

The previous post about this frame found me wrestling with how to transfer the somewhat complicated design to each corner.  Using a half template that can be flipped so each side is the same is great for the outside shape, it’s getting the inner details the same that gave me fits.  After posting my concerns on the Picture Framers Grumble I was happy to get a response that helped me solve the problem.  Something I knew and had showed students in years past but totally forgot!  After first drawing or copying a design on a piece of transparent paper you trace 1/2 of the design on one side of the frame. Then you can flip it to do the other side which gives a reversed image.  The graphite (use soft pencil) used for the first tracing will transfer to the second side.  Anyway, very nice to get a response and also a link to a YouTube video from someone else on the Grumble.

Toning the frame after all of the carving and gilding is complete can be a challenge.  Like so many of the other “crafts” people do you can screw up all of the work with one mistake! After sealing the composition leaf with shellac my preference is to use casein paints as a wash.  The flat finish and ability to reverse the process is its appeal.  A light grey to replicate years of dust and patina is my preference.  Here’s a side by side comparison of how things changed:

Notice how the frame progressed from the bright, brassy finish to a mellower look.  I couldn’t help but put one of Diane’s recent paintings in it to see how it would look.  The title is Ticket to Ride and I’m proud to say I was her photographers assistant, carry the props guy for this one.  It’s taken at the Heritage Museum in Henderson, NV.  This is the old Boulder City train station that was moved there and restored.

Ticket to Ride

Ticket to Ride

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Scottsdale Frame #4: Flower Nouveau

Now that this frame has reached the burnisher/sealer stage I feel as if I can show it on the blog.  I’ve decided to call it Flower Nouveau since there is some of that style incorporated into the design.  The inspiration for this came from Chris Pye’s project on his workshop site called Victorian Lintel.  It’s about 7″ long so it needed to be reduced in both size and complexity:

Lay-out was quite a challenge.  The profile of this molding has a deep cove so using a compass was out of the question.  Thank goodness for printer/scanners that allow you to size a picture to whatever you need.  I ended up making 4 different templates that were attached to my ever popular salad container plastic.  Love these, they are reversible and flexible.  Won’t bore you with all of the details but here’s a brief slideshow of what I went through.

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Briefly the process was to scribe the outer edge of the ribbon with a marking gauge after determining its position with the template (slide 1). After drawing in the ribbon across the miter everything was scribed which made it easier to follow with the v-tool.  The long bent chisels were the best choice for this application.  Since a compass wouldn’t work in this space I resorted to using templates to draw the circle then set off the petal locations with a divider.  The center of the boss was drawn in first then outlined with a #8/13mm followed up with the long bent #5.  Very challenging but I think it’ll read just fine when the frame is complete.

The entire boss was first outlined with a v-tool then eventually scooped out after locating the very center of it with the #8/13.  All work is hand pressure only so as not to go so deeply that the gilding will fault and crack over it.  The next challenge was to get the design in the areas just outlined.  The templates came in handy once again to compensate for my drawing skills; or lack thereof!  In the slideshow you can see how I punched holes in the template where the leaves should be, the notches were easy enough to locate.  For me, I find it difficult to work upside down plus trying to draw a  mirror image on each leg of the frame.  I finally resorted to getting inside of the frame to get the drawing as close as possible (slide 5).  Thankfully it’s a 16″x20″ and I’m small enough fit!

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As with everything, life is a work in progress and the goal is to make all eight of the sides look as close to being the same as humanly possible.  That will only improve as I continue doing this work.  There’s always a balance between looking rough and too primitive and the extreme likeness only a CNC machine can produce — I’ll err towards the side that shows the human hand!  An assortment of fishtail chisels were used to do the edges.  The long bent gouges and v-tools were an invaluable addition to being able to carve in the coves.  Next up — gilding.

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Waterleaf Frame Complete — Next!!

Before I get into the work on the next frame, allow me to share the final result of the Waterleaf one just completed.  Toning and giving the finish a sense of age without making it look like it’s been through the war is the final goal in the picture frame process.  The burnisher/sealer used for this frame is the deep, traditional red color which I knew would show in the faulting between the leaves.  Once the frame was completely gilded the next step is to use 4/0 steel wool to cut the brassy appearance of the composition gold.  I recommend using an oil free product from Liberon for that.  You need a deft hand when removing the gold — it is so easy to go one wipe too many and have poor results!  Trying to replicate where the gold would probably be worn off over the years is what you’re after.  Tried to remove small, random sections on the higher portions of the frame where this would probably occur.  Once I’m satisfied with that I applied 3 coats of platinum blond shellac to seal the surface and prevent tarnishing.  Again, casein paints were used to add some character and tone the gold down even further.  The first mix was with Payne’s Grey and Titanium White only but that was too blue so a bit of Ivory Black was added to simulate what years of dust may look like.  After allowing that to dry thoroughly the entire frame was rubbed down with Liberon Black Bison Wax plus some Rottenstone brushed into the crevices.  I’m happy with this 16″ x 20″ frame:

I did spend the bulk of the shop time today working on the next frame design.  Seems as if things took a lot longer than I expected them to but anytime working, thinking, planning, and practicing is time well spent in my opinion.  Chris Pye has a project on his woodcarving school which appealed to me so thought I’d work to adapt it to a frame.  Well, easier said than done!  It’s called a Victorian Lintel and there are a number of problems I needed to overcome.  Here’s the way things looked when I finally called it quits:

End of the Day

End of the Day

Problems to overcome were that not only is his project three times larger than the area available on the frame corner it’s also done on a flat board.  The leaves on either side of the boss were unequal length which doesn’t work well for a picture frame. His drawing is on the right side and you can see there is way too much detail for the small area I have to work in.  There are three separate templates made from plastic which I’ll discuss once I get into actually doing the frame.  The first step will be to lay out the 3/8″ wide border completely around the perimeter.  The pronounced cove in this profile will have to be tapered down before the design can be transferred to the frame.  If you compare the practice carving on the left and my final template in the center to Chris Pye’s original design at the upper right you’ll see it’s much simplified.  The outside edges of the center boss need to be dimensioned a bit too but I’ll work that out tomorrow.

One thing I’m finding, there is very little information out there dealing with the carving of picture frames.  I know the majority of them come from “off-shore” or are mass produced by some chip and dust throwing CNC facility.  I went to the Desert Woodcarving show in Mesa this weekend and there was absolutely no information or books out there that dealt with carving quality picture frames.

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As Others Saw Me!

This blog is totally unrelated to my woodworking so maybe somewhat difficult to write.  You’re probably aware that Diane and I are spending 6 months in Scottsdale as our 20th. anniversary trip/celebration.  The goal and purpose is to really immerse ourselves in the vibrant art scene found here.  The Scottsdale Artists School is one of the finest in the country and features workshops taught by well known artists from virtually everywhere.  Diane has enrolled in many workshops over the years and always came home inspired with a new perspective of her own art journey.  My goal during this time is to concentrate on carving and gilding frames — that has been written about in previous blogs.  So, to get to the point; Diane suggested that I apply to become a model at the school so I interviewed and was placed on the roster.  Here I am, on my first “modeling gig”

Michael Siegel Workshop

Michael Siegel Workshop

I was put on the schedule to pose for Michael Siegel’s workshop.  If you click on the link to see his website you’ll agree with Diane that this was a good fit for me.  His style is impressionist and based on that of the old Dutch Masters.  Let’s see, I’m Dutch but no master but do have the type of face he’s done in other work.  I was scheduled for two days; 8:30 – 4:00 with an hour for lunch plus breaks, roughly 5 minutes every 20 minutes or so.

Michael Siegels Demo

Michael Siegels Demo

The first day, Michael spent the morning demonstrating to the class by doing the portrait shown here.  Now, three hours isn’t a lot of time for this work.  For as long as I can remember, I’ve always been fascinated by the process of doing “stuff”.  Doesn’t matter if it’s making an oatmeal cookie or putting together a giant skyscraper — the planning and process of doing things is exciting!  It also doesn’t matter that I’m not likely to accomplish them, just knowing how is what I like.  As he worked on the painting he was explaining the why’s and wherefore’s of the process.  Some of it he related to sculpting so I took away some information for wood carving.  Other things were those that Diane has shared with me when we talk about our own studio work at the end of the day.  Just cool stuff!

After lunch the first day, the students in the class drew numbers to see which easel position they would have.  I taped my foot location to help me return to the same position after each break, found an object across the room to focus on and prepared for sitting still — not as easy as you might imagine!  Having done this before for groups in Las Vegas I knew what to expect but a 6 hour posing day was a bit more challenging than the 2 hour ones there.  You just don’t move or scratch an itch instead plan stuff in your head, sing songs (silently), and enjoy the process.  And enjoy it I did!  Michael was constantly answering questions from the students and doing impromptu demonstrations on their canvases.  I suppose you really had to be there to get a full appreciation of it.

In any case, this 5 day workshop was geared towards painters of all levels.  If you’ve never observed an artist as they create their work it’s not an easy, slap the paint on the canvas process.  Every stroke of the brush has a purpose, they need to capture the light and shadow plus every nuance between.  Michael was telling me that some academic schools will have the same model sit for 50-60 hours so that the artist can really capture all there is — whew!  Here is a slide show of the work they completed.  Many of them took photographs of me and will no doubt spend time in their home studios if they intend to finish this work.  Great experience and I’m looking forward to more of them.  Just a note, Michael would do those impromptu demonstrations on the students canvas — those aren’t aliens coming out of my chest!  Every artist had a different view of me as you can tell.  These paintings are not intended to be portraits per se but rather a study of what the artists wanted to express based on what they saw in front of them.  Much preferable to a photo realistic painting in my estimation.

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Waterleaf Molding — Gilded

Freshly Gilded Frame: Waterleaf Carved

Freshly Gilded Frame: Waterleaf Carved

The question in my mind was would I be able to lay the composition gold into the carvings on this waterleaf carved frame and thankfully, the answer turned out to be yes!  The previous blog about this frame had to do with the layout and carving.  Now I’ll talk about the gilding of it.  First off, this is composition gold leaf, not precious gold that is applied through water gilding.  As previously mentioned, although I’ve done some water gilding I have a problem with being too electrified and full of static so the process becomes really aggravating.  Throw the cost of the material and the increased labor of applying many coats of gesso and clay and the composition gold becomes much more attractive.

I only use oil based size, I don’t have much confidence in water borne products.  This is the slow-set variety so the frame was sized last night around 8:00 pm, gilding began about 12 hours later.  This molding is 4-3/4″ wide so a full sheet of leaf wasn’t quite enough to go over in one pass.

Leaf Layer

Leaf Layer

Watching the video may be as exciting as watching grass grow or paint dry but a number of followers have asked about the process I use to apply composition gold to frames.  Since I really can’t talk during the process let me summarize it first.  Laying a full sheet of leaf (5″ square) takes some practice but if you use what I refer to as a “leaf layer” it’ll help the process.  This is nothing more then a piece of 1/4″ MDF measuring 7″ square with a circular opening to make it easier to hold on to.  The corners are rounded over and it’s waxed to reduce any friction.  You’ll see it in use during the video.

Enjoy, let me know if you have a question.  Not showcasing any videographer skills here, just the method used for laying composition gold leaf on a picture frame.

Just some thoughts on my method:

  • Once the leaf is on the layer, no more breathing!
  • The first step is to anchor the leaf on the inside edge, it then becomes a dance of pressing the leaf to the frame while at the same time sliding the leaf layer back.  As a rule, begin on the right side of the leaf, not the left where it overlaps the previous one — you need to stick it to the frame before gently pressing it onto the size
  • Control the angle of the leaf layer so you’re gently pulling the leaf down onto the frame, don’t let gravity do that for you
  • It helps to have a method, mine is to start at the left side so the overlap is consistent all the way around the frame.  After the entire frame is covered I now press the leaf down into the size working from the right to the left — this way you won’t lift at the overlap
  • Resist the urge to press more leaf or remnants of the leaf into carved areas, you’ll find it results in an ugly build up of “scraps”.
  • Corners are tricky, sometimes I’ll cut a leaf diagonally and follow  the miter of the frame
  • Faulting (cracks) are inevitable, pieces of leaf can be laid over larger ones and blended in with your fingers afterwards
Removing skewings with blush brush

Removing skewings with blush brush

There are two main things I do after pressing the leaf down with my fingers.  The first is using a blush brush donated from Diane’s make up table!  By the way, these remnants of gold leaf are called skewings.  If you don’t brush them off prior to the next step they can scratch your frame.

Final Pressing of the Leaf

Final Pressing of the Leaf

Once those are removed my next step is using a microfibre cloth to press the leaf firmly.  At the same time, any over-lapping pieces are removed as well.  Now’s when I have to give my “oh too critical eye a rest!”  There will be areas that faulted, areas that may have missing leaf, specks of dust, and maybe even a stray hair from the size brush.  Frames are meant to look as though they’ve been around for a hundred years.  There are entire books written about how to authentically age picture frames.  Just pleased with the final results and after thoroughly drying it’ll be time to begin the toning process.

 

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Waterleaf Molding — Exercise in Repetition!

 

Sample Piece and Frame to Be

Sample Piece and Frame to Be

Foster Planing Mill No. 95

Foster Planing Mill No. 95

A very classic design for moldings is the waterleaf motif.  Although they appear quite complicated its form comes from a series of cuts made with specific chisels in a given sequence.  Whew, all that being said as an ultra runner I seem to like repetition; you know the process — left foot, right foot, etc., etc. Start that pattern and in 10 hours or so you’ve conquered whatever 50 mile mountain race you happen to be doing at the time.  One of the molding profiles we found at Foster Planing Mill seconds area is the one pictured here.  It currently lists for $6.85 per foot and I know we paid a lot less than that for it!  The waterleaf will fit nicely on the Ovolo section.

For reference I’m using the water leaf molding series on Chris Pye’s website as well as his book:  Wood Carving, Projects & Techniques.  Another book used for reference is by Frederick Wilbur:  Carving Architectural Detail in Wood.  These are books that have been around for quite some time so you can probably find them bargain priced on eBay.  I also use Pinterest and image searches on the internet.  All that being said, the most difficult thing to find is detailed images of how to treat the corners of the molding — thankfully Diane has a pretty good eye for that, mine is still developing!

The frame I’ll be doing has a sight size of 16″ x 20″ and can handle a stretched canvas.  After doing a practice section and gilding it to see how difficult that may be I was ready to begin work.  I’ll break this up into a couple of slide shows to give you the basis of how I went about it — no substitute for Chris Pye’s video and practice but hopefully it’ll break the process into simpler steps.  First was to make a plastic template that fit in the Ovolo section of the molding.  The eye (place where two leaves meet) is generally 1/3 of the distance but your gouge size determines it as well, I had a #5/23mm.

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The spacing of the units was trial and error but main focus was matching the gouge size to create a nice pattern.  To draw the straight lines the pencil point is put into the divider mark, slide the square edge of the pattern to it, and draw your line, just be sure your pattern in 90 degrees and square.  A #9/3mm is used to make the eyes followed by a punch to flatten the torn fibers at the bottom.

Now it’s time to shape the leaves themselves.  I began by using hand pressure to lightly set the line from the lower corner to the eye.  This was followed by what I hoped were uniform taping with a light mallet to set them in to a consistent depth.  All cuts were made in one direction then the other.  Now to remove a crescent shaped sliver using the same #5/23mm gouge — difficult to get consistent cuts as you can see so practice is required!  I keep reminding myself though about that saying of the beauty of handcrafted items being their imperfections.  Also, it’s the painting that should be the star while the frame has the supporting role.

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Secondary Leaves

Secondary Leaves

When the frame is gilded the variations shouldn’t be so obvious. Now that the main leaves are complete the secondary ones between them need to be formed.  The #5/6mm fishtail is just right for this step.  By cutting all from one direction, then the other, then both sides of the main leaf I hoped to achieve a uniform rhythm.  Once all four sides were cut, they were popped out using either the fishtail or a small, skewed gouge.

All that remains is to form the tops of the leaves.  The line between the eyes was first stabbed with a double beveled, fishtail chisel (#1F/16mm) making it deeper at the top and shallow on the eye line.  The tops of the leaves were then formed with a #5/12mm fishtail.

So there you have it, a short tutorial on cutting waterleaf molding.  The question that always comes up is: “how long did it take?”  The first one didn’t count because I took all of these pictures to share the process but the second, 16″ leg took right at 45 minutes.  I recently had a conversation with a fellow woodworker and her and I seem to be on the same page.  Doing things like this is all about the process, the reward is mainly your own self-satisfaction.  Can’t ask for anything better than that as far as I’m concerned!

Posted in Carving, Hand Tool Woodworking, Picture Frames, Scottsdale Adventure, Tutorial | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Share the Completed Frames

Finding a good location to photograph these frames has proven difficult!  At home I’ll use the side of the house in the mornings before the sun hits and the lighting is really quite nice.  These are the best I can get here in Scottsdale — a corner of Diane’s studio which is lit up nicely now that she too has an LED shop style light from Rockler.

Not sure why I’ve started calling the 8″x10″ a Corner Leaf Motif — it’s really a flower!  Just to recap, the Celtic Knot one was made from molding we got when we went to Foster Planing Mill from their “second’s pile”.  The other is modified from the molding they made based on Diane’s design.  In my last post about this frame it was ready for  the gilding  process.  Due to the depth of the molding there was some concern on my part about how this would turn out.  Here’s a look at the gilding process for the corners:

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Still working on the carving, it can certainly be frustrating being the student!  Watch video’s, read books, read blogs, and then for some reason my chisel doesn’t seem to do what I think it should.  Like Diane and I both say: ” if it was easy, everybody would do it”.  This is really all about the process of trying to accomplish as much as possible in life and keep on keeping on — next frame is going to be an exercise in perseverance for sure.

Posted in Carving, Gilding, Picture Frames, Scottsdale Adventure | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments